Sunday, September 18, 2011

Next installment

Added in more specks and spots and made existing ones bigger.

Then went over those with a thin white wash (only on upper neck, not on shoulder) This is exactly what I was looking for. I kept the color but I subdued it down to where it looks more natural in the coat (I think so anyway)


  1. Gorgeous! When you paint appaloosas, do you paint a white base in acrylics first? I heard its not good to paint spots on top of white primer, is that true? Also are the white hairs just plain titanium white or titan buff?

  2. The white base coat on this horse is non-yellowing white primer. There are two reasons for why you may have heard it's not good to paint on white primer. The first one is that you want to make sure the primer is non-yellowing. If it's not, the color can shift and yellow over time which can cause a shift in the color of your spots or pastels. Secondly, any primer, even non-yellowing can shift over time if it is not sealed. Primer is porous and is designed to be used under a topcoat of sorts. The topcoat seals the pores of the primer. It becomes non-yellowing at that point (this was told to me by more than one primer company). 'Topcoat' can be acrylics, oils, OR sealer. So as soon as the primer is sealed you'll be good to go. You could seal the horse before you start if you'd like. With all that being said it is not a bad idea to use a white topcoat on top of primer if you want to. Just check for reactions first or use the same brand of primer and topcoat.

    The white acrylics on this horse are actually straight titanium white. The Titan buff is a cream color and I just use that to warm white, never straight. But for this horse since he is technically a 'show horse' I want him to be clean and white. If the sculpture was in more of a pasture type pose or anything outside of the showring, I'd adjust the white with a hint of Titan Buff and maybe a bit of Quaker Gray just to warm that up. But in this instance, just straight white:) Hope that helps!